The three numbers that make or break an aurora photo are aperture, shutter speed and ISO — plus getting focus locked on infinity. Get these right and even an entry-level DSLR or a modern phone will capture the green.
Here is the exact starting point our guides give guests every night, then how to adjust it to the strength of the display.
The starting settings (DSLR / mirrorless)
- Mode: Manual (M)
- Aperture: the widest your lens allows — f/2.8 is ideal, f/4 works
- Shutter speed: 5–15 seconds (shorter for fast, active aurora; longer for faint)
- ISO: 1600–3200
- White balance: 3200–4000K
- Focus: manual, set to infinity (see below)
- File: shoot RAW
How to nail focus in the dark
Autofocus fails in the dark. Switch to manual focus, aim at a bright star or a distant light, use live-view zoomed to 10× and turn the focus ring until the point is sharp. Tape the ring so it can't move. This one step fixes most blurry aurora shots.
Shutter speed by aurora strength
- Faint glow (KP 1–2): 12–20s to gather light
- Clear curtains (KP 3–4): 6–10s
- Fast dancing aurora (KP 5+): 2–5s to freeze the structure
The stronger and faster the aurora moves, the shorter your shutter needs to be or the curtains blur into a green smear.
Phone settings (iPhone & Android)
Modern phones are excellent. Use Night mode (iPhone) or Pro / Night mode (Android) with a 3–10 second exposure. Always mount the phone on a small tripod — handheld night shots blur. Lock focus to infinity and turn off the flash.
Essential kit
- A sturdy tripod (non-negotiable)
- Spare batteries kept warm in an inside pocket — cold drains them fast
- A remote or 2-second timer to avoid shake
- Wide, fast lens (14–24mm, f/2.8) if you have one
On our aurora photography tour, guides set your camera up for you and coach you through the whole shoot.